Good Time Sally

Like I said there would be more to follow......

Today was a perfect way to sum up my time spent so far here in Noosa. So for the last week or so it has rained, and by rained of course here in the tropics that means day and night. Flat out koalas and dingos, not too much of a problem though as I picked up a little bit of super aids, and so it was worth while just hanging in the hostel to recover, and as the doctor said "no surfing" for 3 days over this weekend just gone.....don't you worry dudes I did listen to the doc, and I hit the bed and the echinacea until BANG this morning I woke up to brilliant blue sky, and I mean the type of sky you have to reach out to make sure isn't just painted. I woke up streaming sunshine, that little guy dominating the sky shooing clouds away with its own brilliance, and a perfect 1/2 footer peeling round first point. Man this sucks I thought, nah I didn't really all my snivelling and getting looked after by the crew paid off and fiddles wished they were as fit as me. I chowed down the museli, slurped up the green tea, chilled and waited for the team to start work and literally skipped my pasty pom butt down the hill to Noosa Longboards.

Once atthe board store boss man Pete was working and over the last few days we had struck a deal on a board I had started to rent after I sold my buddy Mark my hastily bought 9'1 (wished it was the bear) "Sunset Surfboard". "Sunset Surfboards"? I had questioned the guy who sold it to me, who shaped this? He speedily through out some name with a P and an X I think in it before bagging it up so we all know what that means. Well it means who knows, probably some poor freaking Thai kid wishing he was earning more than cockroaches, that's what that means.

Anyway back to the board store I spent too long chatting to the dudes (and I mean these dudes are literally trapped in 1960's Noosa) Outside there are VW combi's and Alaia boards everywhere (Alaia boards are some of the very first boards to have been made, similar to the ones seen ridden by the hawaiians and polynesians before they thought about the benefits of keel type fins in the late 40's), today was a good day as well Pete and I shook clammy paws (mine definitely were) on a superb looking, second hand (i promise pengy), 9'3 Tea Tree Model. Why did I choose this board your all dying to know....Not.......Anyway its designed by Josh Constable (oh by the way I found my way to Noosa Longboards initially by bumping into Josh's mum, who with again as always with the locals round here managed to waste a good 20 minutes talking about how amazing life is with) and shaped and built down near Byron. One of the 5 main points to surf here is called Tea Tree and so this special piece of craftsmanship is actually designed to be ridden on these points. Not only that its been designed with the love of the locals, and furthermore feels happiest when it has someone perched right up on its big stubby nose, just taking the time to let all 9 foot plus do all the work. It's like cruising a 1960's mustang through route 66, this noseriding possibility is certainly proving to be my new favourite activity, if only I could find my way back to the other end of the board, before the fin drags into the sand and the lifeguards are shouting at me to get out of the swimmer zone. Just kidding of course. Most know I'm not

God anyway, sorry about this franticly exciting sounding post, but time on this computer means money dudes.

So we shook paws......yep thats done, and then he yelled to Bowie, who was working in the store today as well to help me refin with my new fins. I didn't need the help but hell within seconds of chatting to Bowie I knew why he had done it. Bowie was indeed a pro longboarder and is surfing in 2 categories of next weeks surf festival competition the Noserider, and the Pro LSQ. So without much hesitation I said to Bow, shit dude im scared I have never competed before, and I definitely don't feel like choking and showing the Union Jack up, especially as people like Ben Skinner (UK Pro) will be there patiently expecting something, anything. Bow was awesome he explained the rules, which i definitely needed and explained that the judges will be marking on a 70/30 split. 70% on New Skool techniques like cutbacks and lip riding, which is something I had just started to grasp back in the 5 degree saunton points back at home, and 30% Old Skool, like noseriding and general stance, and making the whole thing look "too easy". He went on to explain if I was able to hit 2 good cutbacks on the sections, and hang five digits over the edge that would be enough for me to make it through to the second round which would do me fine I thought. Then as with everyone of the old guys and pros I have had the chance to chat to round here he smiled casually and said, just make it back to beach, and don't fall off. Great thats the only bit i struggle with haha. Im joking this time.

What helps though is that a large proportion of all dudes taking part are like me, just in it for the fun and enjoyment of surfing, and the possibility of being one of only 4 dudes surfing the points for 20 minutes. As pengers gracefully put it after I had realised what I had done about a month ago.

So skipping back to the lodge with my new (second hand) board, to cream up and grab the rest of the posse, I couldn't wait to turn around adn run back to the beach.

It was brilliant you guys, the waves were flowing, uncrowded, and long. The weather today has been the best I have actually ever experienced, cool breezes, an amazing sun, green leaves, golden sand and turquoise seas. Parrots and insects battling over colour and weirdness competitions and surfers from every generation squigging over the fact it was Tuesday morning and the office was looking pretty bright, god to be back in the air conditioned comforts of ADP. Haha, the desk, the laptop, the phone ringing and people demanding payroll systems they can't control. Man it brings a tear to my eye..........it was all worth it.

To be feeling like this right now, a constant tidal wash of sheer contentment, every muscle pumping after finishing the 5 hour stint with Marky and Oscar in the waves. The rest of the crew Sadie, Kristy, Shell, Fem, Mina comparing sunburns, and everyone with sand in their butts, its tough.

Tough to decide how best to describe it in words, other than, you make choices and decisions in life that take you and guide you to make new ones. Up until this point everyone has changed my life, and yet here in this small, hideout on the sunshine coast the only decision you have to make is which beer best cools the blood, and what time is going to be best to call home.

I love you all and will promise to get you your pictures soon. Thanks as always for reading and I will try and get to speak to you individually as soon as I can. But hopefully you can appreciate how busy it has been. :o) Nah im joking I just had to get better first. Thank you for all your comments and keep em coming. I honestly wish all of you were here. You deserve to be.