Saturday, 1 May 2010

Reading back, the post yesterday was actually a bit of an explosion. My fault for leaving it so long and having so much to tell you all. I thought it best to start by describing my location, so when writing we all had a picture in mind as to where I am.

The next thing we need to talk about are the jobs I am currently doing here. You see I gave up my job with ADP for a few reasons, but the main reason was really the satisfaction of the job I was doing. I never felt like I was making people happy through my work or efforts, and certainly not myself. Then also the type of work that I was doing was fairly thankless, in consultancy and sales you achieve results. You beat targets, and you get paid. That is your thanks. But so rarely do you hear those words "Thank You". In order to sustain a healthy soul and to acknowledge any effort those simple words are the richest currency, that money will never be able to buy. So in understanding this, or at least in currently having this perspective It was important for me to find a job, or become part of a world where money did not take precedence but where putting your efforts are rewarded with a smile, a thank you, or perhaps even the saving of an endangered species....

Throughout Australia as you can appreciate this was not my focus, my focus there was to surf my ass off. To clear my mind of any dust and cobwebs. To let go. And I feel this was truly accomplished. I left Noosa and the points the happiest I have ever been able to remember, I had competed and done ok in a big surf festival and competition, and I had collected some great friends and tales. But I knew I was going to Cambodia with a job to do, and as I settled into Island life this widened my grin. What a job.

After a couple of days of settling in, work and life began. It started with the reading and tests required to begin diving, and while this was my focus I also began to stick my nose into the other jobs that were available on the Island. Fuck it, you know, it is awesome to be chilling horizontal in your hammock all day don't get me wrong, but as a bit of a geek I do love to work. I love to be learning and doing new things everyday, and it soon became apparent my life on the Island was going to provide just this.

So while studying the PADI Open Water stuff I got stuck into teaching English to the groms. The kids on the island as I briefly described before are a fantastic bunch, literally the most diverse pack of fruit-cakes you will ever meet. But they do all share a common bond, they love to learn. I think realistically they just love to be doing anything but fishing, but nevertheless these little dudes are always stoked, and you can literally be teaching them the most mundane shit, like names of fruits (now thats a story in itself), but they literally love it. They love it so much that you can't help but love it either. I sit there nowadays with 15 of them ages ranging from 6 to say 11, sweating my nuts off, and as we go through shout-repeating names I can't help but smile from ear to ear, there are kids literally hanging off you as we all sit on the mat looking at the board on the floor, clambering, wanting to just be close to you and so hearing them get it right, ask questions in English and scribble down the spellings has to be one of the most rewarding feelings you can have. Another element that makes it all worthwhile is that you too can be close to them. Quite a traditional relationship exists here on the Island, where kids are really kids. Adventurous, intrepid, explorers, a bunch of mini Indiana Jones' spending their days fishing, building, getting stuck into the jungle and truly enjoying childhood. Likewise there is absolutely no western prejudice over the relationship with the kids, it is perfectly normal it seems even as a stranger to be strolling around the village with a couple clambering all over you, a couple clinging to your clothes and holding the hands of several others. It's a great feeling and with being so close it keeps them coming to English everyday, and why not hey, for them it's another opportunity to learn something new, which is apparently their greatest passion in life, after all they are kids.

As a pausing note the Island is a truly innocent place, by no means naive, but with the combination of real traditionalism and a thorough commitment to Buddhism there just isn't any tension here. I mean most nights after the day at work the team will stroll into the village to one of the 2 bars / peoples front rooms acting as bars, and it seems everyone in the village just dances their asses off. Rain (and I mean rain) or (moon) shine the whole place just gets funky to the sound of Khmer beats. Everyone grinning like crazy and with either a Klang (beer) or cup of Mekong Whiskey in their hand, but not one drop of this heat that seems to exist when out in a western bar or club. By heat I mean that intense feeling of needing to either look your best, or have your best pulling strategy out, it just doesn't happen. Because all girlfriends are future wives, and normally chosen for you, it feels like there is no pressure between dudes and girls, everyone is literally there to party, and I mean party until everything is soaked in sweat.

It's quite funny, and I do appreciate we have digressed from the job chat, but when back on the mainland in the bars and clubs there, back with the global bar crawl posse, the atmosphere is completely different. You know what I mean, to look at or to touch someone means something completely different, to dance your ass off so hard you are literally liquid form is apparently frowned upon or must mean you are on something. Take last night as an example as a crew we had the whole dance floor to ourselves for most of the night, as everyone was not drunk enough to dance. Funny that because as soon as you are your also drunk enough to lose all coordination and standing is an issue let alone raving. Haha listening to this coming out it sounds a little bit mental, but I love the innocence of this island, I love the fact that life is for working hard and partying a lot harder, and certainly not for just latching on to some pissed blonde and laying down some smooth lines to try and get her on your moto. Fuck that lets party until we all pass out to the sound the waves.

Anyway, back to work. So yeh I started the teaching thing while reading for PADI, and also began to ehlp out where I could with the Clinic. My friend Anja was running the clinic at the time but her time on the Island was coming to end, in fact this week, and she asked if I could take over the Reigns. Now I do appreciate I am not by any means a trained nurse, or medic, but I do have some knowledge of this world (thanks mum, dad, pengy) as I have always been involved in the Pharms, and medical worlds. Not only that but I do enjoy patching up scabby kids, as similarly to the teaching, there is nothing better than seeing a grom smile, or seeing a parent bowing in thanks as the infection has disappeared. This is a part of my life here that has really really given me the sense of satisfaction I was looking for. So admittedly it does mean waking up at 6:30 / 7:00 everyday, even after not getting to bed sometimes until 4, but as I stroll into what is now my clinic, I guess, on the Pier of all places, there is normally a queue of 8 - 10 people who just beam at you as you take off the padlock and kick out the squatting teenagers (haha brilliant). It is truly the best way to wake up, I mean that is if opening your eyes and remembering that you live on one of the most beautiful islands in the world is not enough hey. It's pretty easy first aid work really, most of the time it just requires a bit of warm water cleaning, and good rub of antiseptic and a bandage or plaster, then a firm telling "leave the plaster on, don't go in the water, come and see me tomorrow", you have to say the last bit as I don't one patient so far who listens to the first 2 points. Especially the kids. This week I did have a good hole to work on one of the Island elders though, a real hardcore dude called Mr Ployt, who was bitten by one of dogs, I mean this thing was a real hole. But it just took a bit longer than normal to clean and patch up, and I decided the best thing for him to do was to get on the next longtail to the mainland and go get some stitches from Dr Kim. Seeing him smiling again as he got on the boat, was enough of a thank you for me, it just felt amazing to know that I had helped in getting him what he needed. Thats another cool point about working and running the clinic actually, getting to hang with Dr Kim. A really mellow old dude in Sihanoukville who always greats us with a smile. It's been really interesting learning from him actually, as for example this weekend I went to him after I had found worms in one of the kids poop which I knew I would need to get tablets for the whole village for. and then a couple of the kids have managed to contract a skin disease from one the dogs on the Island. So upon speaking with the Dr last weekend has asked me to get some pictures of the scabs and infected areas, and I sat with him yesterday while he taught me about the different diseases it could be and while we found the appropriate antibiotics. How sweet is that, literally dudes, I am smiling my ass off as I write this, just knowing that I had always wanted to be doing this, just this.

So 7:30 I am patching scabby kids, and poking through their poop, then in the evening I am teaching the little ones English, while others are teaching the teenagers and adults. So what the hell do I do all day.

Well now with my PADI OW completed I can dive (to a maximum of 18 meters), oooops, did a dive this week to 25.4 meters but don't tell anyone ok. It means I could start the conservation work I originally signed up for. The 2 main areas I am working in are Seahorse surveys, and reef clean ups. Diving is a whole other chapter to be honest guys, and I hope to be able to talk to you about that with some pictures so I will keep that for another day, but the main responsibilities are. In the Seahorse surveys we dive in groups of 3 and we normally get ourselves hooked into the current and lie really low, just a couple of inches max off the bottom (great buoyancy practice), then we move as slowly as possible across the sea bed investigating every urchin, rock, twig, to look for little sea-ponies who might be clinging on there. Its seriously fun work, and last week I managed to be the first to spot one, rather than just hovering over one someone has found to take its details, this time I found one just hidden in a dead clam shell, it was breathtaking, well actually too much breathtaking as I got so excited I blitzed about 10bar of air in a second but was a truly emotional moment, there I was hovering like an astronaut-apache helicopter over this little girl, as she was staring right back at me. The most beautiful pink and white creature I have ever seen. Her little fins and crown flapping frantically to stay on the rock, we shared a moment haha, I wrote down her vitals and bid her farewell. One day I thought as I continued we will get you and your family up to good numbers again, we will get a parameter in place to stop trawlers smashing your homes, and if that isn't a good enough reason to be here then I don't know what is. God I love this part of my jobs too.

The reef clean ups are slightly different to this really, they are truly wonderful too as you dive onto the corals armed with a knife and bag, you glide gently around picking up all the shit thats lying around, normally playing cards and for some reason pants??? But this is all a very very chilled experience, in fact diving is probably one of the most chilled things you can do, as you are in like this quite zen like place both physically and mentally, your efforts are on controlling every breath and moving as little as possible, being as slow as possible, and believe me I don't want to ruin the diving stories that will be coming, but when surrounded by a school of 42 big Batfish it is sometimes hard to control the breathing and not get excited. But again as you surface with you bag full and you feel like you have made a real difference, yeh of course, tomorrow there will be just as much trash on the reef, but you do feel for today anyway the fishies and life down there can breathe once again. Again a big smile on my face.

So you would think in between clinic, seahorse spotting, reef cleaning, teaching partying your ass off and lying in hammocks there would not be time for anything else. Well actually I have found a further job that has got me very much hooked, and also in with the project management.

But my internet time is very very nearly up I am afraid, haha, I actually have to get out of here as I have a longtail to catch. Fuck. Ok so next week I will tell you about the job that has truly captivated me, a job I never thought would be out there, but instead has found me and with a little help has become a real occupation prospect, wait, career prospect. Oh and of course I will tell you all about some of the diving that has been going on.......I don;t have my logbook this time and don't want to miss any of the detail.

Phew, glad I am back into writing these posts to you all actually, there was so much in my mind I just had to let you know what was going on out here. Apologies it may read a little scrambled but thats just my chilled little noggin trying to remember how to get all this across. God damn I wish you were all here to enjoy what can only be described as the one of the best existences I could have dreamed of. I hope all of you are well.

Hey guys.....

Ok, you know what I am going to put the Australia chapter down for a little while. No worries, no worries we will all be able to pick it up again when I have a little more time to use the internet and things like that, but for now I need to bring you all up to where we are today. I have the rest of the Oz trip documented in my travel bible so it will happen. But like I say, I need you all to close your eyes for a few moments and let me transport you to a very, VERY, different place.

Welcome to Cambodia.

More specifically let me welcome you to the Island of Koh Rung Samleom. K.R.S. hmmm how best to describe this place....This is actually a bit of a story in itself to be honest guys. I have tried to take a few pictures of the Island and of the views that I have, but still I cannot find the shot that would best describe where I am. Then I thought ok perhaps I will not achieve a true description by leaving it up to the hands of my Lumix, and so I have tried several tmes in my hammock to write or draw a sufficient description of the Island. Again failure as I realised that words also come short when trying to do this place justice. Why? Well it just has to be the emotions associated with what I am seeing and experiencing here.

As an ok National Geographic / Lonely Planet style summary of the Island, I can tell you it is a small Island off the coast of Sihanoukville, Cambodia. The Island is fairly tucked away behind several other Islands as you enter the Gulf of Thailand, which provides a great amount of shelter, for both marine and land based ecosystems. With this positioning the Island is completely covered in very rich green Jungle, and the entire surrounding coastline drops onto all kinds of reefs and sandbars literally teeming with all kinds of fish, corals and small sea mammals. Perfect some might say, but it really really does not stop here. As you approach the Island on our standard form of travel (traditional Khmer longtail boat) the first thing you notice is the cooling breeze generated by being in the gulf, this is a great first impression as the temperature comes down to a cool 32 degrees on average. Then the cove opens, and as you drift slowly past the main blocking Island in you realise the impact all the colours are having on your senses. Brilliant greens, of all shades, the cool tasting turquoise of the sea, the deep purples of the reefs 20 metres down, and of the course the shimmering white of the sand as it surrounds the island. This is your very first impression of the Island.

Then the boat pulls up to the beach, and saying that it really does feel like a scene from the movie, in front of you there is a very small traditional fishing village. Houses comprised of local timbers and corrugated iron sheets. Tarpaulin as a major prevention from wet season flooding flaps in the cool sea breeze. The conservation village to the left (consisting of 7 bungalows/sheds) lies hidden behind a mask of palms and beach trees. You gather your bags slip off your flippy floppy's and jump into the water off the boat. First sense is that of the ridiculously hot water, in the shallows here I am not even joking when I say I would be comfortable in colder baths, then you are bundled by at least 10 gromets, freaking out with the prospect of another mystical westerner entering their community and their Island. They pull at your bags, and you, and at first perhaps it's hard to feel comfortable, but you can't help but smile and laugh with them, as they carry wider smiles than moon crescents. You gladly hand over your luggage as they run down the beach with it towards the conservations main bungalow, a rehearsed welcoming that relaxes you in an instant.

Upon entering the bungalow, no in fact even approaching the conservation village you are truly reminded of what it means when people say a natural and rustic existance. There is no sound other, than birds, kids squeals in the wind, and the sea. No generator hums, no vehicles, no "Tuk Tuk", "Moto", "Taxi" just the feeling of the sand crushing under your feet, and the odd crab sprinting across the burning surface. I arrived late in the afternoon, everyone had finished work for the day and was winding down when I met them, and this seemed to be a perfect time. I dumped my staff in bungalow, with a sigh. Luke who was showing me around, says "oh and if you play guitar we have one here, (a really Island looking 3/4), but no one plays it so feel free" Again a sigh and a grin at Luke (I had been waiting for a guitar for pretty much my whole time in OZ and to this point) "Oh im sure I'll find a use for that" I respond. "What a place hey man" I mention to Luke as we begin our tour, he replied "Dude, welcome to the Island, population us and about 200 others, and beyond that millions and millions of the best friends you can have." Random I think, what is this crazy Londoner chatting about???? Little did I know not only was this a beautiful place above the sea, only previously witnessed in dreams of tropical islands, but the true beauty of this place was to be found around 15-20 meters down, amongst that purpley shade in the turquoise glass surrounding us.

Hmmmm, reading back, does this best describe how I felt, and the things I saw that first day....It may do it some justice, but I think the moment I realised I was truly in a very special place. I was lying on my bunk in my net, and the moment I opened my eyes, i peeked through my square whole in the wall (window) and was greeted by cool pastel shades of pink, red, blue, green of the longtails in the bay, the sun as it had just popped up above the now sparkling green jungle. The rich blue and purple sea was waving back at me inviting me in, some sanctuary from the 30 degree heat already at 7am. I went outside onto the balcony brushing my teeth and had to pause, for their was no sound, nothing, other than the occasional horn-bill, a tear actually came to me, haha (@choppy - a small tear falls), I had never felt so honestly happy to be alive, I have never felt so sure of making the right decisions, and I had never wished my friends and family could be looking at what I was staring at right now so much. It is moments like this that are begining to reoccur here, moments where you realise that this planet, has tiny corners, incredibly small in their produce, their advertisement, yet so so so rich in sensory exploding details that really remind you of what it is to be human. It is places like this that remind you why you have eyes to see, why you have skin to feel, why you have a nose to smell and a tongue to taste, why you have ears to hear. Each sense is taken on vacation here, and given the massage its always needed. This place is designed for one thing really and that is to give your soul a rest. Yeh that's pretty good actually this is where your heart and soul come to vacation. Now if you can imagine that, then you are half way to understanding I think, the next half is to get yourself here.....

Ok so I will continue this story, however I have an errand to run for a couple of hours. Haha, who'd have thought I would have a job to do here. Well actually 4 jobs, but thats cool, the currency is worth more than gold. Real happiness.

Monday, 12 April 2010

Well that week of the 9th was a mixed bag of emotions to be honest, as one of the strangest situations of my life fast approached, I began to actually acquire nerves. Nerves I had supressed since I used to trot around on stages in front of large crowds of buzzing parents back at Collingwood.

I am not sure if everyone reading this was aware but before I had actually departed for Australia I had (on the prompting of a certain Penguin) found myself registering to take part in the Noosa Longboarding Festival Surfing Competition. Prior to going into the detail I want to remind you that up until recently I had arrived in Australia and was being absolutly re-schooled in how to surf, so realistically I am not actually some kick ass super pro, but with some kind supportive words I was going to be taking part in the 18-39 Amateur Open event at the surf festival, just to get a bit of a grading I felt and most importantly of all a chance to surf First Point Noosa with only 5 other guys in the water and get a kick-ass tee with a big fat competitor logo printed on it for the fesitval. Hoping that this would bring a competitive edge also when it came to talking to some of the truly ugly tree bashing girls that stroll the beaches of the most "beautiful" place in the world.

Anyway the festival started on the 13th and a few days before I started to actually acquire some nerves. Which is probably about the same time I slipped from my blogging habit.

The weather was sweet, Noosa was stunning and the swell had risen to a cool 4ft. The trouble with all this is that not only did this mean locals where taking RDO's (Rest of Day Offs) everyday, but a further 10,000 logging fanatics had arrived in town all looking to score some sick right handers. Now I'm a lover of "everybody surfing now" but seriously surfing Boiling Pot one day there were at least 4 to 5 hundred people in the water. The entire point network looked like a conveyer of every surfer in the world, clawing at the chance for a minute ride through the points, and as mentioned it was cranking. I was out there at about 3pm one of the days and everytime I turned my plank I would bash into someone. Firstly I was still sitting quite far outside because I was still scaredof the angry aussie surfers shouting at me for no reason, and secondly it was 3PM in the afternoon, lets just say it was mental. In all the fridge like chilledness of my mind at that stage a small mosquito of panic flew by, how the hell was I going to get any better for the comp in 4 days, and how the hell was I going to survive as another 3 year old grom sprayed me across the face with a ridiculous backhand cutback, classic of everyone in Australia. I was surely an alien in this situation, and like most hollywood representations I was surely doomed.

So I thought hey, big grin appearing now on this reminiscent noggin. So i thought.

Comp day came, and my heat was the 6th that day. I would be surfing on Monday the 14th at 8:40 AM and quite thankfuly I even had a buddy in my heat from the lodge. Which I was hoping would ease the poop factor. We had picked up our sick tee's and a bunch of other cool shit on registration day, and to be fair I was now feeling pretty amped. What an experience this was going to be. My fairly average surfing ass taking part in a real Aussie surf comp, and more than that the same comp that Josh Constable, Rabbit Bartholemew, Joel Tudor among other would all be taking part in as well. This was going to be off the chart, and I was so excited all over the weekend before I couldn't stop wee-ing.

8:40 was not going to be too ideal of course, because it meant myself and Mark would be going out for a little pre-comp surf at 5AM. Not too much of a problem as we had surfed dawn a few times already, but the problem was once again every longboarder on the planet was also seemingly thinking the same, and we paddled into a crew of about 100 people all knawing at each other for rids on First Point. Also 8:40 was the high tide peak that morning, and with this meant that First Point would be fully flooded, and potentially have as many waves as a tranquil buddhist water feature, that had no waves. So there were a few obvious obstacles ahead. Oh and not forgetting to mention my heat would be shared with a Taiwanese Ninja, a French Assassin and 2 Aussie Local boys who bled Noosa point breaks. Time to put on the comp rashie then and stop being a pussy hey.

We stood all in a line, on the beach, with our boards waxed and chilled, and I was trying to figure out how the fuck I was going to survuve when all of a sudden all the "done this beforers" turned round to me and said "hey bro, good luck hey....." "What? I thought, what is this. Some sort of "so you're English, a little overweight, and riding a mellow plank" sympathy cry / snigger from 4 tanned, athletic, surfing super powers, with brand new comp spec performance boards. Nope this was genuine. And so was the chatter as we all picked up our boards, and strolled into the sea, likewise the banter, chatter, and moaning of conditions that followed as we paddled out to the comp area. I couldn't believe what was going on, this was supposed to be a competition, I was nervous, why isn't everyone Wanna-Be Tank Evans' glaring at each other making slit throat signals. Then I remembered this was the Noosa Longboarding Festival, and looking back at the beach with all the old guys chilling drinking beers at 9AM in the morning, arms crossed hanging out, beautiful girls in very little staring over Gucci and Prada shades, and the Commentator bellowing "Phill Sargeant from the UK, welcome to Australia buddy", this was certainly going to be a very different perspective to a competition than I had thought, In fact nothing can prepare you for that, especially as I turned back to the boys I was sharing this heat with had all started to sing along to the black eyed peas track that was blaring out the sounds system on the beach. I blinked, wee-d a little and smiled. The Air Horn Blared once, Blared Twice, and I paddled into the first wave. Popping up into my bottom turn I thought, you fuckwit, what were you worried about, this is Noosa, paradise, she's hardly here to scare you, now go have fun, surf your ass for 20 minutes, and savour every second, because you are actually surfing in a Australian Surf Comp and you sure as hell know what needs to be done to score.

I did score, I did also come last in my heat, but with a 10 minute wave miss on first point within our 20 minute heat, who cares. One thing I am proud of for sure, is that I was the only English dude in the whole Amateur Open, I did'nt come last overall in fact 50th out of 60, and I scored pretty decent in 2 waves.

I will never forget that moment, arriving back at the beach with the boys, all 6 of us grinning shaking hands and literally strutting past the crowds back to the tents, I will never forget the people that came to meet us, all our friends who were whooping and screaming along the headland as we paddled in, and the friends I made throughout the competition week. I will never forget the feeling of being a part of the whole festival, the amazing surfing I saw, but above all the experience that was gained.

I will definitely be back to do that again.

Sunday, 11 April 2010

Well it certainly feels like I slipped off the updating wagon hey...

Or should I say that the wagon crawled to a mellow halt, and I was still firmly on it.

9th of March, are you shitting me, I thought as I logged on to the blog today. So much has occured since then it almost feels daunting bringing you all up to speed. In fact so much has happened that even I myself have realised a new place in my life in that time, and we can all appreciate that takes a lot of occurances and happenings to reach.

However you all, like me, are on a journey, and this journey would not be fullfilled if not truly shared, so it is my responsibility to bring you up to speed with exactly what has been going on, and how this new perspective has been acquired. Enjoy these following chapters all (if possible, or in some cases if understood) and lets get back together, as I sit here in Phnom Penh gazing exhausted and dripping into this beautfiully old skool monitor....

Tuesday, 9 March 2010

Like I said there would be more to follow......

Today was a perfect way to sum up my time spent so far here in Noosa. So for the last week or so it has rained, and by rained of course here in the tropics that means day and night. Flat out koalas and dingos, not too much of a problem though as I picked up a little bit of super aids, and so it was worth while just hanging in the hostel to recover, and as the doctor said "no surfing" for 3 days over this weekend just gone.....don't you worry dudes I did listen to the doc, and I hit the bed and the echinacea until BANG this morning I woke up to brilliant blue sky, and I mean the type of sky you have to reach out to make sure isn't just painted. I woke up streaming sunshine, that little guy dominating the sky shooing clouds away with its own brilliance, and a perfect 1/2 footer peeling round first point. Man this sucks I thought, nah I didn't really all my snivelling and getting looked after by the crew paid off and fiddles wished they were as fit as me. I chowed down the museli, slurped up the green tea, chilled and waited for the team to start work and literally skipped my pasty pom butt down the hill to Noosa Longboards.

Once atthe board store boss man Pete was working and over the last few days we had struck a deal on a board I had started to rent after I sold my buddy Mark my hastily bought 9'1 (wished it was the bear) "Sunset Surfboard". "Sunset Surfboards"? I had questioned the guy who sold it to me, who shaped this? He speedily through out some name with a P and an X I think in it before bagging it up so we all know what that means. Well it means who knows, probably some poor freaking Thai kid wishing he was earning more than cockroaches, that's what that means.

Anyway back to the board store I spent too long chatting to the dudes (and I mean these dudes are literally trapped in 1960's Noosa) Outside there are VW combi's and Alaia boards everywhere (Alaia boards are some of the very first boards to have been made, similar to the ones seen ridden by the hawaiians and polynesians before they thought about the benefits of keel type fins in the late 40's), today was a good day as well Pete and I shook clammy paws (mine definitely were) on a superb looking, second hand (i promise pengy), 9'3 Tea Tree Model. Why did I choose this board your all dying to know....Not.......Anyway its designed by Josh Constable (oh by the way I found my way to Noosa Longboards initially by bumping into Josh's mum, who with again as always with the locals round here managed to waste a good 20 minutes talking about how amazing life is with) and shaped and built down near Byron. One of the 5 main points to surf here is called Tea Tree and so this special piece of craftsmanship is actually designed to be ridden on these points. Not only that its been designed with the love of the locals, and furthermore feels happiest when it has someone perched right up on its big stubby nose, just taking the time to let all 9 foot plus do all the work. It's like cruising a 1960's mustang through route 66, this noseriding possibility is certainly proving to be my new favourite activity, if only I could find my way back to the other end of the board, before the fin drags into the sand and the lifeguards are shouting at me to get out of the swimmer zone. Just kidding of course. Most know I'm not

God anyway, sorry about this franticly exciting sounding post, but time on this computer means money dudes.

So we shook paws......yep thats done, and then he yelled to Bowie, who was working in the store today as well to help me refin with my new fins. I didn't need the help but hell within seconds of chatting to Bowie I knew why he had done it. Bowie was indeed a pro longboarder and is surfing in 2 categories of next weeks surf festival competition the Noserider, and the Pro LSQ. So without much hesitation I said to Bow, shit dude im scared I have never competed before, and I definitely don't feel like choking and showing the Union Jack up, especially as people like Ben Skinner (UK Pro) will be there patiently expecting something, anything. Bow was awesome he explained the rules, which i definitely needed and explained that the judges will be marking on a 70/30 split. 70% on New Skool techniques like cutbacks and lip riding, which is something I had just started to grasp back in the 5 degree saunton points back at home, and 30% Old Skool, like noseriding and general stance, and making the whole thing look "too easy". He went on to explain if I was able to hit 2 good cutbacks on the sections, and hang five digits over the edge that would be enough for me to make it through to the second round which would do me fine I thought. Then as with everyone of the old guys and pros I have had the chance to chat to round here he smiled casually and said, just make it back to beach, and don't fall off. Great thats the only bit i struggle with haha. Im joking this time.

What helps though is that a large proportion of all dudes taking part are like me, just in it for the fun and enjoyment of surfing, and the possibility of being one of only 4 dudes surfing the points for 20 minutes. As pengers gracefully put it after I had realised what I had done about a month ago.

So skipping back to the lodge with my new (second hand) board, to cream up and grab the rest of the posse, I couldn't wait to turn around adn run back to the beach.

It was brilliant you guys, the waves were flowing, uncrowded, and long. The weather today has been the best I have actually ever experienced, cool breezes, an amazing sun, green leaves, golden sand and turquoise seas. Parrots and insects battling over colour and weirdness competitions and surfers from every generation squigging over the fact it was Tuesday morning and the office was looking pretty bright, god to be back in the air conditioned comforts of ADP. Haha, the desk, the laptop, the phone ringing and people demanding payroll systems they can't control. Man it brings a tear to my eye..........it was all worth it.

To be feeling like this right now, a constant tidal wash of sheer contentment, every muscle pumping after finishing the 5 hour stint with Marky and Oscar in the waves. The rest of the crew Sadie, Kristy, Shell, Fem, Mina comparing sunburns, and everyone with sand in their butts, its tough.

Tough to decide how best to describe it in words, other than, you make choices and decisions in life that take you and guide you to make new ones. Up until this point everyone has changed my life, and yet here in this small, hideout on the sunshine coast the only decision you have to make is which beer best cools the blood, and what time is going to be best to call home.

I love you all and will promise to get you your pictures soon. Thanks as always for reading and I will try and get to speak to you individually as soon as I can. But hopefully you can appreciate how busy it has been. :o) Nah im joking I just had to get better first. Thank you for all your comments and keep em coming. I honestly wish all of you were here. You deserve to be.

Monday, 1 March 2010

Pictures Speak Louder Than Words

Right I do appreciate last time I said I would try to describe Noosa, and that I would fill you in all the awesomeness of the place. Then I failed by getting way to excited about the previous weeks activities.

Well I promise that this post will be dedicated to that story. It might take me all week to get it down, as everytime i think of the place i get super excited and skip aroudn the lodge for a few minutes, in disbelief i am still here, and actually alive. But I will have your mental imagery detailed with shade and colour as soon as possible.

First things first however, check out Halse Lodge in Noosa Heads. This is where I am currently staying and hopefully we can start to the build the picture.

By the way all those that have been out with me in the past, over the last 2 days every single wave has definitely been the best wave of my life. Did I mention 1-3 minute right hand point break rides? Great food and fantastic company? And the surfing? If not it is perfect.

If you have ever dreamed of surfing turquoise seas with a local pod of dolphins, tropical backdrops and golden sand underneath. Peeling right handers breaking at 0 mph down a long slow line, full of face. Then this may start to give you some idea of how things are going.

Much, much more to follow........

I love you all.

Sunday, 28 February 2010

A Bumpy Landing In Paradise

Ok....So travelling hey. Pretty fun isn't it.

Well first and foremost I hope that you are all well. I'm sure you'll all be pleased to know that I am doing great and I am safe and sound tucked up in one of the longboard capitals of the world Noosa Heads. Seriously guys it is stunning........this in itself is probably the most average description for this place that I could give so I am going to work a little harder and try and build you a true picture of where I am. One that you can build in your mind for yourselves, as I truly think that any photos taken of this place will not do it any justice.

You see particularly after a couple of events that took place last week, to be in this sanctuary feels like I have been given a new window into life, a new persepctive and a million friends.

I have to tell you a little story first, oh man, what a bumpy ride getting here, and no I ma not referring to turbulance, all the pilots have seemed to know what they are doing. But as for the groundcrews, not so much. When I landed in Brizzy I hung out at the conveyer of luggage cruelty with a couple of buddies I had made on the plane. Todd (what's up toddie?) and Justin (how was transporting althought authentic london buses Jus?). For what seemed like forever waiting to spot my packed out rucksack, full to the brim with no doubt very little that I will actually need for this trip. You know what it's like everyone gets off the plane spaced out greater than MIR and bloated (farting) and you all drudge up to the rubber luggage killer where you stand, stare and prey. You prey that every little piece of what you left home with has also made it to the same country as you. You get that deep sick feeling after the first 5 cases have come off that you will not be so lucky, and then after the last person has taken their bag believe me that feeling gets worse. I said goodbye to my 2 new friends and continued to wait. I must add to the picture at this stage that there was one bag left on the conveyer, a very beaten sorry ass looking bag, that certainly was not as bulky as the bag I had left with the girls at chekc-in. I laughed a little inside, Ha whoever owns that is travelling light I thought, and upon looking around I noticed that realistically I would be laughing at myself, the only loser left clinging to life round the conveyer. RIGHT I thought, this will not do, so I walked to customer services and I said politely but sternyl "excuse me, but it appears the bag I left with your colleagues at Heathrow seem to have either left my bag on the plane, or they have replaced it with this poor little thing........Turns out there is now some very well dressed singaporean in a yellow quiksilver tee with my favourite billabong boardies. Dude if you are reading this remember I am coming to Singapore and I will find you. But you can keep the clothes I have nice shiny new ones, with brands I haven't even heard of so you lose.

Good start hey.

Well no worries, I thought as I travelled into Brizzy city, this is what travelling will be like, and its about how you handle these minor hiccups that makes you a traveller. So in true cost effective travellign style what did I do, I wenty straight to the nearest surfshop (as we all know killer expensive) and restocked. Brilliant travelling insurance you cheeky little fella you.

Now from here I knew I had to get to my pre-booked accomodation in a place called Stradbroke Island (see inserted picture, soon), and little did I know I had probably done one of the smartest things I had ever done, in booking this escape. Firstly as it got me the hell out of the city, and secondly because it was so far out of the city and city life as you can get in any country. Indeed Straddie Isl is a realy haven, a small hawaiin type affair just off the coast. Beautiful. Famour for its diving and its 1 surfing beach I was sto-o-o-o-ked.

Travelling over to Straddie and waiting for the ferry on the mainland, I bought my ticket and came out of the office only to hear "alright mate", I turned around and thought, please don't mug me.......squinting adn sweating into the sun......far from it in fact. The chirp came from a guy c alled Ben, who had been standing behind me at the counter in a camping store where I bought a new backpack add on, and had patiently waited for me to finish spilling my lifestory to the poo girl who was by the end sleeping on the till. Not only this but Ben was a 24 year old English brother, who had actually been on the travels for 5 years (mum, dad, take note) and had been living in Brizzy for the last 18 months. He was also travelling over to Straddie to spend a week camping on the island. Literally saving my life Ben and I chatted about what this game is all about, and things he had done and accomplished in his time away. We caught the Bus together and turned out his campsite was on the same plot of land as the diving and surf lodge I was staying at, and by plot of land I mean beach......

Anyway things just went from pretty amazing to brilliant, as for the next 2 days myself, Ben and a whole crew of English, Dutch, Kiwi, FijIirish, of course Aussie, just kicked back and soaked up Island life, no shoes, no pants, and loads of discussing home surf breaks, seafood and possible travelling adventures. Guitar was played, and songs sung load into the night. Not forgetting on my first night on the Island Ben made a truly satisfying Sausage Pasta Something that after that first day went down like winning the lottery.

Then it was back to Brizzy, I was kind of dreading it to be honest, back to the concrete jungle/never chilled. I went to a backpackers and got settled in to a night watching 18 year old English girls show Foreign guys of all nations their pants. Brilliant. As they stumbled around the city drunker than a koala on goon.

My roomies were cool that first night, but the second night, things definitely turned up gear. I got back to my room after a day of TEFL training and moping around wishing I was back on Straddie, and I had a new roomie, oh by all my previous roomies left the morning after, could of been a number of reasons to be honest. As choppy (younger bro) will tell you sleep talking, and farting are 2 things I take pride in mastering during the subconcious state. Anyway I got back to my room and there was a sweet freshly turned 19 year old called Morgan swigging Bacardi Breezers in my room, definitely not allwed as a rule of thumb, anyway I started chatting to her about what she was doing and she rolled a smoke. Again definitely not allowed, but I thought go with it as she was local and I was lost. She was telling me about her perspective on life, about her future plans, about her past (just your average small talk) and then she explained that she was in Brizzy to see ACDC, adn that her dad would be joining us. Brilliant I thought this would be classic, then she also explained that her 2 friends were already at the concert, and would be coming home wasted at some point dressed in Angus school outfits, also brilliant.

So the night began I explained that I had to go do some more study, and she asked If I could show her where the train station was so she could meet her dad. No worries I thought, although this does feel like the wrong way round. Then things took a slightly different turn (are you getting the feeling nothing stays on the same path? I know I am) , anyway she said she had to wait like 15 minutes, so I said ok cool lets grab a quick pot and I'll wait.......well 1 pot turned into a scooner (jug) and then no sooner had that finished than her Dad rocked up. Now after the 3rd scooner I thought you know studying is probably not going to happen tonight but both Morgan and her Dad were fantastic people and the night just got better and better. You see they were also celebrating Morgs birthday and out of the kindness of these guys hearts I was accumulated as a new family member, and they insisted I came with them for dinner. Well what I didn't know is that both of them had already eaten and this meant lets go get wasted, so without any lining we went to a backpackers bar (i think to help me feel more at home), well we danced (hard) and sweated, and drank to replace the salts and fluids lost, and then got kicked out at some obscene time (probably only like 12). Then exiting the bar we bumped into 2 dudes dressed as Angus, indeed these were Morgs friends Hammie and Dell, and so it was only right that we took the greeting celebration to a 24 hour bar.

Here Morgs eyelids got heavy and she went back to the hostel to sleep, leaving me with Dad (Ross), Hammie and Dell. Well I just have to say here we had a truly awesome night and thank you to you all for turning my city adventure into a life long memory in my first week. Us boys stayed and drank and slurred a chat until 4am, I was chatted up by a dude, brilliant, and we managed to save the bar from a troublesome kiwi, seriously people just cant write this stuff......

The morning after with a very heavy head we all left the backpackers and went our seperate ways, I now with lifelong friends in Cairns was heading to what in my head would be paradise, in talking with Unky Peng I had dreams of beautiful long beaches, a chilled surf town and 3 minute facey right hand point breaks, surfing along palm tree and koala filled coastline........well friends let me just say this was about the biggest understatement one could imagine. Welcome to Noosa the bus driver said.

Monday, 15 February 2010

The End

Dear Phill...she says as we gather round, and so your trip is just round the corner. Well we are all here to celebrate you, and your trip, and I have written a little something to see you on your way. A hush through the conservatory as she begins to read....

"On 20, 02 Phill sets off for oceans blue,
To travel the world, to live the dream,
That's what it's about, you hear him scream,
He did his time, played the game,
Behind a desk he made his name.

Now with compeed, compass, and micro-fleece
There's hills to climb and kids to teach,
With Flip Flops, Boardies, and Divers Watch,
There's seas to surf and fish to watch.

Phill has a blog to write his story,
Of wondrous sights and all the glory,
Maybe a book of adventures too,
Will be written for me and you.

He leaves us all back here in Blighty,
We'll miss him so, we'll miss him mighty,
We'll catch him up in far off places.
And put a smile back on our faces.

Well Thursday's child has far to go,
He's packed a bag and told us so,
Take our love and bring it back,
Still wrapped up in your knapsack.

Enjoy your time take good care,
It's precious cargo you've got there,
With great adventures of foreign seas,
Come back to us our only plea."

And so with this and a list of approximately a thousand tasks to complete in 3 days the journey really does begin. Well almost, its Monday night and I leave on Saturday, there is still a shit load to do, but you know what Pengy called and there is a wave. There is always time for surf. Saunton here we come...........

Saturday, 19 December 2009

Merry Christmas Phill!

Love Andy
x